Thursday, 7 December 2017

Modimolle - God has eaten


This is Modimolle, the mystical mountain which has given the town in southern Limpopo its new name. Legend has it that the mountain has paranormal powers, the most famous being the believe that anyone who climbs it will never come back. And because the climber "never" returns, then the explanation for their vanishing is that "God has eaten" or Modimo o lle, in Sepedi. 

The contraction of the Sepedi phrase created Modimolle, a proper noun and legendary name Africans gave to the revered natural feature. Apart from the danger of disappearing in the mountain, the mountain's foothills, which are traversed by the N1, the equally fabled highway to Polokwane and beyond, also pose a formidable danger in neverending vehicle accidents. The locals believe that the cars, buses and trucks which regularly crash on this part of the N1 do so because of the spirts of the mountain which need to be appeased. 

When motorists drive past Modimolle, they hardly realise that they are actually climbing the lower rungs of Modimolle. Some locals, even the authorities in the province, strongly believe that the accident rate on the N1 is highest between Mokopane and Bela Bela, Limpopo towns which sandwhich the Modimolle mountain. 

In obvious support of this theory, that vehicles heading north or south along the N1,drive over parts of Modimolle, causing headlines grabbing accidents, churches and government regularly hold prayer sessions to calm the displeased gods of the mountain.

We need prayers, they say as the people of Limpopo join the chorus seeking divine intervention for the accidents. Some weekends groups of Apostolic churches – Mapostola – also known as Zionists in South African parlance, can be seen early in the morning at the bottom of the mountain, further up from the highway, wrapping up their all-night prayer gatherings.

Father forgive thy children
For Satan's affliction of pride 
has led them astray
Many of thy poor children
Do not even know
about the mistakes of many years ago
when this road was built 
on the home of thy Holy Family 
who look after thy mountain, oh Lord... 
We pray thee, asking for forgiveness
and blessings to pray closer to thee
on thy Holy Mountain
Amen.

"We pray to God to help us appease the spirit of the mountain, so that he can forgive humankind for trespassing on his hallowed ground," one of the priests explains their mountain pilgrimage at the end of an all-night prayer meeting one Sunday morning.

Wide-eyed and wearing a green coat with imprints of red crosses, white doves and yellow fish, the priest's words are clear despite coming from a mouth covered by a bushy beard.

"The green of the jacket stands for the earth and its natural environment to which we return when we die, until we are called to join the heavenly spiritual family at resurrection.

"The crosses represent the love and sacrifice of Jesus Christ, our Lord. The doves stand for peace and understanding among humans, and from humans towards the natural environment.

"The fish represent spiritual fulfillment and good health for the body and mind. The three –  spirit, mind and body – must always strike a healthy balance, lest humankind is doomed," says the priest in a soft and yet commanding voice.

He oozes so much calm, the ultimate beauty of humankind, as he continues with his post-worship sermon to a curious traveller.

"Our pride as humans kills us. But as someone faithful to my religion, I want to believe our prayers contribute to making sure majority of travelers live to see their families again. When the road was brought here, the government planners did not consult spiritual groups like us or African spirit mediums, to pray and perform necessary rituals to show respect to the mountain and its spiritual family. 

"Now innocent people die... just because they drove on Modimolle, the mountain of no return."

About 150 years earlier, another priest in a different group of people looked up Modimolle and was overwhelmed by a revelation.

"Ons zijn in het beloofde land eindelijk," a Jerusalemgangers priest, also heavily bearded, declared in the mix of Dutch and Afrikaans on arrival in the area.

We are in Promised Land at last, he exclaimed.

 

Jerusalemgangers, or the Jerusalem-bound ones, were a group of religious zealots who left the Eastern Cape on a journey to reach Jerusalem in Israel or Palestine. They were in rejection of the British rule, first moving to Natal and later moved again as the British solidified their rule there in 1844. 

The language of the Jerusalem group was mixed like that after a decade of travel into the hinterland had eroded their original Dutch, the language of their ancestors in Holland and fellow settlers in the Cape. Some in the group though were originally French, descendants of the Huguenots who fled religious persecution in Europe. They go by surnames such as Du Toit, De Klerk, Lombard, Basson and so on. There were some Germans too who just happened to trek along.

Thinking the mountain was a pyramid reshaped by the weather over a period of time, and seeing a local stream flowing northwards, the Voortrekkers were convinced they had sighted the Nile River, or Nyl in Afrikaans. They thought the two natural features, the mountain and the river, were sacred signs indicating that they had reached the Promised Land, for which they had left the Cape many years earlier.

By 1870 the group of white settlers, largely seen as mavericks by other Dutch communities, were already an organised community and named their settlement Nylstroom (Nile stream), and their "pyramid" Kranskop, meaning "crown hill".

Kranskop is also the name of the tollgate in the area previously known as Nylstroom, the first one to be built on the N1 highway in then Northern Transvaal.       

Exactly 132 years later, the new black government in South Africa has renamed the town Modimolle, the name local African communities have always used for the mountain, before the pyramid confusion.

Today life is still quite a slog in the farming town, which in recent years has reinvented itself as outdoors getaway through its countless game farms and lodges. 

But all this has not brightened the life of Matlakala, a single mother of four. She is only 32 but deep furrows of sorrow and pain have reconfigured her face, giving her the look of a saturnine middle-aged woman.

She's unemployed like many in the black township of Phagameng. It's worse for women, who can only work as domestics or farm hands. The better educated - or better connected, as some see it - can get government jobs.

Matlakala's situation however is aggravated by her poor formal education, as she left school a year before high school.

She left school early because her parents had arranged for her to train as a sangoma - a diviner.

"Matlakala o na le badimo (is troubled by ancestors)," her mother would explain her daughter's timid and withdrawn nature. Some times the poor girl would scream in her sleep, pleading with someone to leave her alone.

Her teachers complained about her absent-mindedness and sleepy nature in class, and advised her parents to do something "Sesotho way".

"Ngwana oo o na le badimo (this child is troubled by ancestors)," Matlakala's teacher once told her mother during a visit to the family.

Three years later Matlakala is 15 when her father is jailed for rape and incest. It turns out he is the ogre she was screaming at in her sleep to leave her alone. Matlakala's father was the architect of her psychological problems and languor in the classroom.

Her mother did not help ease her daughter's mind, calling her sefebe - a whore. Matlakala's mother repeated this bitter accusation during her husband's trial, when Matlakala, seeking motherly comfort and love in the midst of the intimidating court procedure, asked her mother: "Mma, le be le sa kwe ge papa a nkata?" (Didn't you hear when father raped me?)

"Shut your mouth you little whore. I have lost a man because of you."

Matlakala's sexual abuse cases came to court through the work of a dedicated social worker. She, the social worker, had been called to the school by Mr Mathibela, the principal. Mathibela was alerted to Matlakala's situation by another teacher who was vigilant and loving enough to notice her pupil's troubles.

It would emerge during the trial that Matlakala's mother knew about her daughter's ordeal at home. With no proper family support, Matlakala dropped out of school. She had already been let go at training to be a healer. The ancestors never called her after all, so said her gobela - the sangoma trainer.

A year later Matlakala is pregnant. The father is a 20-year-old high school dropout, a serial loafer and already a father somewhere else in Phagameng. The young man does not bother to know about the progress of his child, or of Matlakala's pregnancy. His only drive is to search and find places where he can get free booze. Any alcohol will do for him, including illicit brews whose drinkers age prematurely and end up not eating food at all, leading to sore feet and legs leaking nasty fluids.

"Knock knock, anybody home?"

"Oh, Ntate  Principal, what happened? Is Daniel in trouble?"

"No Matlakala my child, Daniel is not in trouble. I am here to avoid that happening."

"Ao, Principal, what do you mean?"

"Can we sit down and talk? I need a few minutes to explain what is on my mind."

The school principal is still standing in the kitchen, with the door behind him still ajar. Normally, an important visitor like him would be led to the living room-cum dining room-cum lounge, and a bedroom at night at some households overflowing with family members. Matlakala is numbed by embarrassment because of the condition of the house; she does not offer any suggestion to the headmaster.

Mathibela ends the impasse, with a tongue lashing on her former pupil whose  troubles he knew very well.

.
"Ausinyana (little lady), I am not judging you but how possible your house is so messed up? It's 3 o'clock in the afternoon already... what have you been doing all day?" 

Mathibela snapped at her like a true headmaster. Noticing her pain, Mathibela changed tact.

"Anyway, we know that a woman's work is never done. It's better we sit outside, under the shade of the tree; it's very hot today," he adds as Matlakala leads him out of the messy kitchen to the yard outside, with two plastic chairs held under her arms.

They sit down facing to the east, a middle aged man of wisdom alongside a semi-literate young woman who looks middle aged. White long-sleeved shirt with a brown tie, against green doek and dusty bare feet. Glowing well-fed face versus haggard, undernourished physique.

"Tomorrow is not a normal school day because we are having an athletics competition at Ephraim Mogale Stadium. Apart from participating athletes, other children are not expected to report to school but go straight to the stadium. 

"We had problems in the past on such a day. We have information Daniel and his friends are planning to brew trouble at the stadium tomorrow. It's not clear what they are planning to do. But according to our informant, Daniel and his gang were talking about bringing large amounts of beer to the stadium, to drink during the athletics event. 

"We can't say Daniel must be stopped from going to Ephraim Mogale. The local police have promised to be at the stadium to watch over all of us. But they are not going to be searching people going into the stadium."

After a brief pause, Mathibela continues: "Ausinyana, I am asking you not to give any money to Daniel tomorrow. At least pack him some sandwiches so that he can have something to eat during the day at the stadium. I hope my explanation and request about the money are clear and make sense."

"Aowa Principal, it does not make sense. How can I ever give Daniel money when I hardly have any myself? I don't even have money for the clothes he wears. I am suffering with the children because their fathers do not care if their children are dead or alive. 


"The only time there's cash here is after the social grants have been paid, for the second and last born children. There's no grant for Daniel because he does not have a birth certificate. Mhlupheki's grant is given on interim basis until I get an ID number for him. His hand-written birth certificate does not have the 13-digit ID number like other kids.  His grant is renewed periodically but this may not last long unless his ID number is issued.

The ID application for Daniel's sister Kedibone, the third born, was rejected because another child in North West province is drawing the grant with the ID number similar to Kedibone's.

"Some people say the duplicate was probably created by a nurse or home affairs official to create a ghost grant recipient. I reported the matter to the police but they say I must apply for a new ID because there's nothing they can do about the duplicate in North West.


"I have been applying for IDs for Daniel and his little brother Mhlupheki, the last born. How will applying for Kedibone help? They say their fathers must make affidavits at the police station to confirm parenthood, and I must bring the papers to home affairs.

"Daniel sees his father all the time because his way to school passes by the beer hall, where his father drinks sorghum brew almost every day. I doubt if they say anything to each other because Daniel also does not care if his father lives or dies.

"Kedibone's father died a long time ago and his family buried him in Ga-Matlala. I have never been there or any other place in Polokwane. At least one of his brothers could act on his behalf to sign the papers, so that Kedibone can have an ID and get her grant.

"One of the brothers works in Bela-Bela. He does come to Phagameng on weekends some times, but only to have a good with his homeboys who stay here. Once I asked him to help me with Kedibone, and Koena, her uncle, said: 'We don't know Kedibone. My brother never told us about such child. When we were burying him, all his children were there... so where was this  Kedibone of yours?'

"Mhlupheki was not issued the proper certificate because the clinic said their machine had broken down when they discharged me after childbirth. They said I must come back as soon as I felt stronger.

"Three weeks later I went to the clinic but they told me Wednesdays they deal with diabetes cases only. Certificate matters are for Mondays. The nurse also scolded me for going up and down with a newly born baby.

"The following Monday I did not go to the clinic because I had no one to look after the baby. Then the Monday on the fifth week was a public holiday, Freedom Day. The clinic was open only for emergencies, they told me so.

"The Monday in the sixth week of Mhlupheki's birth I went again. You know what they told me Ntate Principal," Matlakala asked rhetorically, as she feverishly stroked her beaded strings around her left wrist, remnants of her short-lived sangoma career.

Her tiny, undernourished body also catches the shakes. Her trembling becomes so violent that Mr Mathibela, the principal, catches her as she is about to fall off her chair. She grips tightly onto the headmaster's forearm and passes out.

She looks a heap of peace, lying there on the bare ground, like she is in the embrace of Mother Earth who is comforting her. Mathibela reaches out for his cellphone to call for an ambulance. He then walks towards the kitchen door, hoping to find any vessel he can use to cup water with from the tap outside.

Matlakala raises her head as Mathibela approaches her with the yellow enamel steel cup. She drinks heartily, like someone who has just been rescued after being lost in the desert.

"About Daniel," Matlakala continues, clearly having lost her train of thought. Before fainting, she was explaining her hardship with Mhlupheki's birth certificate. Even if she has lost her way, her neighbours, including their cats and dogs, chickens and peach trees, know the story to its conclusion. That on the Monday of the sixth week, the nurses at the clinic told her the matter of the birth certificate was no longer in their hands.

"It is too late now; why did you wait so long to claim the baby's certificate? You must now apply for it at the Home Affairs office in town," the nurses told her. 
The story goes that when Matlakala finally managed to string together enough rands to travel to town, the Home Affairs official barked at her: "Where is the baby's father? How can we trust you have not stolen this baby? If you say you gave birth at the Community Health Centre, why then you never got the certificate there, as usual?"

That's where her fainting episodes started, even though some peers remember her fainting at school years ago. But she was not the only pupil to faint on that extremely hot, dry November day in Grade 3.

"He is now the man of the house. There's nothing I can tell Daniel anymore. He drinks, he smokes, sometimes he does not sleep at home. A girl in Extension 2 is pregnant by him, that's what the neighbours say. I don't know. 

"Daniel also wears expensive shoes, I don't know how. Ntate Principal, his father was never around. He came to live with us briefly here after my mother gave me this RDP house. When he left again a few months later, I was pregnant with my third child, Kedibone.

"Kedibone's father had come to live with us after the father of Johannes, the second born, got sick and died. People say he was poisoned by another woman. I don't know. What I know is that he was good, responsible man who helped me a lot. That's why Johannes never had a grant problem because his father went with me to apply for the grant.

"Even Mhlupheki's father did not stay here. He too left and the only places he was seen were the local shebeens. He later died, after complaining of swollen legs or feet. I don't know."

Matlakala had been perspiring as she was rattling off her story of suffering with her children and their fathers. After using the short sleeves of her washed out top to wipe the sweat off her forehead and sides of her face, she continued, this time in a rather subdued voice. 

"Ntate Mathibela, if you and the male teachers at school cannot show Daniel the right way I, as his mother, am powerless to discipline him. He's been setting his own rules for far too long for a 16-year-old boy. He even commands boys older than him. Even the pregnant girl, I hear she's 18. I don't know Ntate, I really don't know. I am struggling."

The ambulance finally arrives but  the paramedics get annoyed seeing the supposed patient relaxed, chatting and... dirty from the dust she picked up when she laid on the ground after fainting in Mathibela's arms.

"What do you mean you are going back without her," Mathibela snaps at the ambulance staff after they said Matlakala looked fine.

"You take her to hospital now so that the doctors find out why she fainted. That is not your prerogative to judge her. If you refuse to carry out your job, I am going to have to report you for negligence, and clumsy approach to your job."

Changing her focus to Matlakala, Mathibela said: "MaDaniel, who can you trust to come here to look after your younger children when you leave with the ambulance?"

"Ntate Principal, you have shown enough caring and I thank you. I am not going to the hospital. It's worse that these ambulance people sneer at me like they are doing right here at my home. How is it going to be at the hospital?

"I will warn Daniel to behave at the stadium tomorrow."

"Why is just the two of you; where is Tuks," demands Daniel as he greets his crew at the dark street corner at Phagameng township. 
"Guys the plan I discussed with you is clear; three of us must corner Ahmed inside his shop. It must be three guys, to eliminate any element of surprise.

"One guy must be on the lookout outside, and also hold back customers until we run out of the shop with the money. It's not even 8 o'clock yet, so let's go chill at Tools tavern until we leave for Ahmed at 8.45pm sharp."

Daniel continues outlining his robbery strategy over three beers from brown 750ml bottles. It's a mystery how they and other boys already boozing at Tools seem to always have money for beer.

"It should take us 10 minutes to reach the spaza shop," Daniel addresses his crew, with the loud music providing cover for his criminal plans.

"When we get there we survey the goings-on around the spaza. Five Past Nine me and Frans we walk in, and you Nare, you stay outside. That time there's no more traffic of customers, but Ahmed will stay open till 9.30pm, as usual."

Daniel fumes as he recalls that one of them, Tumelo, also known as Tuks in the streets, did not pitch for the mission.


"Tuks has messed up our plan but I will deal with him tomorrow. He just has to see Lerato to know what's coming his way. Since I planted the Okapi into that thick head, Lerato is still on his bum, thinking the sky is yellow."

Two things are giving this night something unusual around Ahmed's shop.

"Guys, something is fishy here," says the ever alert Daniel as they come around the dark corner to face Ahmed's shop. 


"This time Ahmed always closes one half of the security gate at the door. Now both sides of the gate are still flung open like during the day.
"And why there's that car parked there. It is not parked exactly at the shop but we can't say it's not parked at the shop. Dodgy.
"Hey Timmy what car is that." 


"It's a Corolla, boss, the old model liked by the Ethiopians," replies Thomas, aka Timmy, though elsewhere he would have been called Tommy instead.

"Ok, but Ahmed told me he is Somalian. I think he's lying. He's Indian like all his homeboys who always visit him at the shop. And Timmy, what do you mean Ethiopian?"

"I always see Ethiopian shop owners drive this kind. They love this old Corolla. Even my grandfather has one. He sings the car's praises about saving petrol, low maintenance costs and so on," says Thomas.


"I suspect Ahmed has called for back-up, guys. They are waiting for us. Tuks has informed on us. I think we should drop the mission."


"Timmy, do you realise you are speaking against the ancestors? Are you doubting Ntate Mlambo's bones and cleanser? Do you want to vanish from the face of the earth, like someone who went up the Modimolle mountain? Mlambo's muthi is potent, I fear for your future because the old man will know you doubted him. Besides, what will we eat and drink at the stadium tomorrow if we turn back now?

"Let's move. Timmy, you wait outside as I walk in with Letsatsi. Your Okapis must be ready boys. My gun is ready too. Let's do this!"

"Hello Daniel, Ahmed told me not to close because you will be coming to bring the money your mother owes for the sugar she bought on credit two months ago," says Adam, the Ethiopian who also trades in another part of Phagameng.

Ethiopian and Somali traders are known for their rivalry wherever they trade in South African townships and villages. Their customers however see them as one people, and call them Makula, from Coolie, an old colonial and derogatory term given to Indians. It's incredible black South Africans still use this term, and have even extended the term to Ethiopians and Somalians, fellow Africans. And no one in authority has rebuked this habit.

In Phagameng, however, the spaza shop owners from the two Horn of Africa nations were one,  following the messy attacks on their businesses by locals in 2013. The spark for the attacks was a Pakistani trader being accused of the murder of his girlfriend, a Phagameng youth. The African foreign traders also bore the brunt of the community's anger. Being accommodated at the same shelter by the authorities helped forge unusual solidarity among the Somali and Ethiopians. This situation allowed them to drop the traditional  animosity towards each other in favour of surviving together in a foreign country.

"Hands up, bloody shit. Hand over all the money, cigarettes and airtime now," commands Daniel in a voice and poise belying his 16 years.

Lights go off and . . . bang, bang, bang!

"Allahu akbar!" (God is greater). Another infidel falls to God's judgment," cries Ahmed Ayaan Danyal, the Somali, from the verandah of his shop, after emerging from the back of the shop where he was hiding and waiting.

The bodies of two boys, Daniel and Letsatsi, lie on the opposite sides of the shop verandah, where they fell in their desperate attempts to run away. They had made similar runs before... 

The irony of Daniel and Ahmed, two Africans from different parts of the continent, having something uniquely common beyond being African is lost in the brief, deadly moment of violence. As the Somali shopkeeper, smoking gun still in hand, steps over the sprawled Daniel there is no telling if he knew his surname carried the same meaning as Daniel - God is my judge.

 

Father forgive thy children... in Modimolle.

Amen.

 

No comments:

Post a Comment